Welcome to our Hydrogen
(HHO/Brown's Gas) page.
How would you like to dramatically increase the fuel efficiency in your
vehicle and the same time eliminate most of the pollutants coming out
of your exhaust? I had heard that such a thing was possible but only
started to look into this more seriously when a good friend sent me an
email about the subject. This got me started looking into the subject
more seriously and quickly got me really excited. The technology is here
today and one way to do this is to install a hydrogen booster in your
vehicle. Does it work? Yes.... By now, probably tens of thousands if
not over 100,000 people have given it a try and are getting results.
There are hundreds of companies selling hydrogen boosters or you can
and build your own.
Interested to know more? Read on...
The technology has been there for decades to use hydrogen (often in
the form of Brown's gas/HHO) as a booster to help enhance fuel combustion
of gasoline and diesel.
The way it works is as follows. Since engines by their very nature
are only partially efficient, unburned fuel ends up as hydrocarbons
in the exhaust. The introduction of a small amount of hydrogen, normally
in the 1 to 2% range, enhances the ignition to make an almost complete
burn which in turn results in more power. Engines also decarbonise
and get cleaner, run slightly cooler, and normally there is a gain
efficiency since less fuel is needed to produce the same amount of
power in the engine.
The carbon dioxide emissions are not really reduced but there is a
close to 100% elimination of hydrocarbons along with near 100% elimination
of carbon monoxide which indicates a complete burn. There is also a
substantial reduction in the visible pollutants such as nitrous oxides,
in the NOx family, by 20 to 60%.
An analogy would be comparing an engine to a pile of firewood. If
it is damp, it is very hard to light. Image the hydrogen being like
a cup of gasoline. If you pour it on the timber and light a match to
it, the wood will combust much more quickly. Adding hydrogen to the
engine, ensures that the combustion is as complete and efficient as
Putting too much hydrogen is not good either. Once you reach a threshold,
introducing more hydrogen gas than is required for a full burn, due
to the inefficiency of generating the hydrogen gas with an alternator,
causes diminishing returns and results in fuel mileage going down.
There are many different ways to produce this gas but most units have
the following in common. The device contains has metal plates that
are connected to the a positive and negative poles of the car battery
. This unit is normally 3-5 inches in diameter, 6 inches high or
taller, and is fastened inside the engine compartment. When the water
via the electrical charge going across the water, a gas comes out
of the top. Dependent on how the unit is designed, the composition
the gas varies. Typically what comes out is called Brown's gas or
HHO which is a mixture of Hydrogen and Oxygen. This gas gets ducted
the air intake which is where air comes in to go into the engine.
This air/hydrogen/oxygen/water mixture is then combined with the fuel
is being atomized or
vaporized and helps catalyze the burning of the fuel efficiently. This
in a better economy of fuel and burning, cleaner emissions and improved
The dream of people working on these devices is to get an engine
self running solely on hydrogen and oxygen (water) with no pollution
and using only water as fuel. This requires the ability to produce
of gas from water with very little electricity. Enough hydrogen needs
to get produced to be able to run the engine and have the alternator
produce enough energy to run the electrolysis unit, which then powers
the engine... Some people claim to have achieved this but never
have had their invention
by third parties and/or commercialized. Until someone figures it out,
as a transitional stage, we have hydrogen booster technologies.
Note: All those who have claimed to run a vehicle
on water (Stanley Meyer, Herman Anderson, Daniel Dingle, etc.) all
seem to have done
it by using more than just brute force electrolysis. It would seem
that the water has to be preconditioned either through exposure to
high voltage, certain frequencies, magnets, etc., to enable the split
of the water molecules with a much lower level of energy.
Benefits/Savings From Using a Hydrogen Booster
The expected fuel savings that can be seen vary. There is a correlation
between engine size and amount of gas being produced. For gasoline
engines, getting 15-20% consistently on gasoline engines is not uncommon....
sometimes higher, sometimes lower.
On a diesel engine, the gain is between 5% and 20% dependent on the
engine size, the use, and the type of fuel. On start/stop trucks like
garbage trucks, 15-20% is commonly seen and on longer distance the
gain is often less than 10%. For example, one truck operator in Australia
is saving 350 litres of fuel a week. So as you can see, with the price
of fuel being what it is today, the payback time is pretty quick.
One company that has been trialling this technology for some time,
finds that they are getting an extra 2 years engine life out of their
engines which is considerable savings just in itself. The engine runs
cleaner and smoother, requires less maintenance, and often provides
a bit of extra power. So really, any mileage gain, is an extra
bonus on top of the other good things that comes out from using a booster.
Problems With Modern Vehicles
People have had mixed results. On older vehicles with carburaters,
it is almost a no brainer; people seem to be getting consistent mileage
On modern cars, it is another story. On most of these vehicles, the
computer needs to be tricked into accepting
gas. When Brown's gas in introduced in the air/fuel mixture, the
computer sees the air to fuel ratios change and starts dumping
the maximum amount of fuel to try to get back to preset parameters.
negates any mileage gains.
People have made devices that fool the computer, e.g. the EFIE circuit
from Eagle-Research, but
even that does not work on all cars. In addition, in the United States
this may be breaking EPA regulations as it is an offence
to tamper with any part of the anti-pollution system.
Hydrogen boosters must be properly installed. Most of them are filled
with Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide which is very toxic and caustic.
Add to this equation Brown's gas which is very explosive. With
a friend, we filled a regular party balloon with Brown's gas and released
it over a lake. We had lit a canon wick which caused the balloon
to ignite about 100 feet (30 metres) up. It produced an incredibly
explosion and shock wave. A neighbour who was at a store 5 miles away
across the lake heard it very loudly as if he was nearby. I also heard
on the Kentucky Water Fuel Museum show where one of the interviewees
mentions that he was once at Yul Brown's house (one of the pioneers
in Brown's gas production) and saw a hole though his roof caused
by one of his generators having blown up. You don't want your engine
compartment to fill up with this gas and ignite!
If a unit overheats, or the Brown's gas ignites, badly designed
boosters can meltdown or explode sending Sodium/Potassium Hydroxide
engine compartment. This can then attack various parts in the engine
compartment requiring very expensive replacement. This is in addition
to the damage that the shockwave from the explosion itself will have
Also, it is critical that you wire your booster so that it only receives
power when the engine is RUNNING. Many connect it to the ignition circuit.
Consider what happens in the following scenario. You put the key in,
power up the car to listen to the radio but do not start the engine
right away. When you start the engine 15 minutes later, you have an
engine compartment filled with HHO gas and KABOOM, everything blows
You must therefore connect your booster to something like the oil
pressure switch which activates when the engine builds up sufficient
oil pressure or the fuel pump which only operates when the engine is
Disposal of the electrolyte is a problem. Some people just neutralize
the electrolyte and dump it in the sewer, on their lawn, etc. Remember
that after running for a while, the solution will contain more than
just water and the original electrolyte (e.g. water). Impurities in
the metal plates used in the booster will have leached into the solution
and be present. For example, on lower grade metal plates you will probably
find hexavalent chromium in the solution which is considered carcinogenic.
So just make sure that all electrolyte is properly disposed of. Many
people keep it in properly labelled plastic water/milk jugs and bring
it in when the community organizes a hazardous waste collection day.
Building/Buying a Hydrogen Booster
For the tinkerer, building a hydrogen booster and installing it on
a vehicle is quite simple. The plans are readily available out there,
from companies such as Eagle-Research and
many others and various discussion groups and web sites.
There are many individuals and companies, too many to count, that
are getting into the production of these units. The costs vary from
a few hundred dollars for a self-assembly kit, to one company selling
commercial units for diesel rigs for over $16,000. If one looks around,
one can find for cars and light trucks very good quality units can
be bought under $500. Unfortunately, some of the cheaper units can
produce more steam than HHO gas because they are not well designed
or they are not filtering the gas properly to get out the contaminants.
So, buyer beware.
A good place to start if you want more information on hydrogen boosting
or even buy a unit is Eagle-Research.
The owner George Wiseman is the pioneer of this technology and worked
with Yul Brown to develop hydrogen boosting. There are many other
sources, some good and some very bad so... buyer beware.
There are a few things that should be considered when looking to buy
- Efficiency of the unit
- How much gas it produces (must be sufficient for the size of your
engine)? A 2 litres/minute unit is normally sufficient for most
cars with a 4 litre/minute unit on big rigs
- Make sure there is something to scrub the gas that is produced
(like a bubbler) so that some of the electrolyte does not end
up in the
engine and is instead returned to the unit
- Make sure it has a mechanism to control the amount of gas produced
(e.g. when idling, at a certain pressure, the generation
of gas will stop temporarily)
- What kind of electrolyte is used? Some are safer (such as
acetic acid, i.e. vineager) but are less efficient or is
it more hazardous (such
as Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide) but produce better results?
- If the electrolyte needs to be changed, how easy is it
to do it? If you use vineager, you can flush it in the
If you use Sodium/Potassium Hydroxide, the spent
needs to be put in a container and brought to a hazardous
waste disposal site
- Make sure it connected in a way that it does not produce
any hydrogen if the engine is not actively running.
The way some
it, if the ignition is on but the engine is not running,
gas is still being produced which IS VERY DANGEROUS
- Does it have low water/electrolyte detection and will
turn off automatically if levels get too low?
- Does it run cool? Some units run very hot and sometimes
overheat and melt. Also, excess heat is wasteful and you end up
consuming more fuel
- If ever the Brown's gas ignites in the engine and
runs through the tube back to the Booster, do
you have safety
pop out or will your entire booster crack/explode,
- Do you have the skill level to build/install
it yourself or should you purchase your unit
a company that
- Is your vehicle still under warantee? Some
modifications required may invalidate your
If you bring your vehicle to your regular
mechanic for maintenance/repairs, will he
be able/willing to
work around your
- Does your state/province require periodic
exhaust testing. Some people have had problems
their vehicle certified when
boosters. Normally, for your vehicle to
pass the test, the exhaust needs to be in a certain
brings the exhaust pollution level to a
level below the minimum therefore might prevent getting
- If you have a modern car with computer
controls, what electronics are needed
to fool the car
in accepting your booster? Different
cars have different numbers of sensors
so what is needed
to each vehicle.
A few personal observations by Michel here at Transformacomm
Hydrogen boosting as a technology has transformed itself in the past
years and continues to evolve at a very rapid pace.
When I went to the Alternative Energy/Healing Partnership Conference
in Maryland at the end of June 2008, a number of people were showing
off very basic Mason jar type units. At the followup event a year later
in June 2009, no Mason jars were seen and the difference in quality
being shown from the previous year was amazing. There is now even an
institute that has been put in place (The International HHO Institute)
to test and certify units to ensure that what is claimed is actually
well engineered, reliable, and have a number of built in safeguards.
A level of maturity is slowly coming to this industry.
Boosters still remain an aftermarket installation
as none of the main automakers have yet embraced this technology (conspiry
conspire your hearts out!) Once booster units become available
through car manufacturers (either at time of purchase or as an
aftermarket option), they will adapt the car electronics
to work with the boosters. Consistent mileage gains
should then be observed in all such vehicles.
Current laws do not always support the use of boosters. I live in
the province of Quebec in Canada and called my local Vehicle bureau.
I was told by the Engineering group (summer 2008) that in the province
of Quebec, boosting cars with Hydrogen or running cars exclusively
on hydrogen is not approved and vehicles with these modifications cannot
be used on Quebec roads. A private tinkerer can probably get away with
boosting his car but basically rules out commercializing this
technology on a larger scale in the province.
I noted that many of the basic units produce a lot of heat. This
is normal if too much current is passed through the cell. Many of the
cool running cells seem to have been designed with a series of electrically
isolated plates and running a current equivalent to 1.9 volts per plate.
That way, the electrical energy goes to break up the molecular bonds
of water, not produce excess heat.
Also, from what I see, most of the units out there are still at the
development stage where they need to be installed and used by a 'tinkerer'.
The units are not meant to be installed by inexperienced people and
run without proper maintenance and care. Someone will need to engineer
and build an idiot proof model before these types of units can be
installed and used in any vehicle safely.
If you are thinking of commercially becoming a hydrogen booster manufacturer/distributor
at this time and doing active promotion and installation of units to
the general public, make sure you know what you are getting into. I
found the Kentucky
Water Fuel Museum interview with Richard Coyle very
enlightening where he shares his experience in going commercial with
this technology and the problems he encountered. There is also the
issue of liability. Selling parts to a do-it-yourself tinkerer is one
thing. Selling a finished product and installing it yourself in your
client's vehicles in something else. What is your liability if your
unit causes damage to the vehicle or causes injury to someone? Unless
you have good liability insurance, your life savings could vanish and
be forced into bankrupcy.
This said, I personally believe in this technology and remain interested.
But I will certainly not personally actively promote, sell and install
at this time to the general public for reasons outlined above.